Visiting Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a city unparalleled in its charisma and charm. It is our favourite city to visit in the UK, and we have been going back again and again each year. It was the first proper place we travelled to after we had our first born – when we bundled him up in the December cold and took the 4hr train down from Paddington to Waverley Station when he was just 2 months old.

So full of history, culture and beauty - with its cobblestone streets going up and down the hills, the spires that adorn the skyline, the Castle that sits magnificently looking over the city and bagpipes sounding from street corners - coming to Edinburgh is like stepping back in time, albeit with all the modern day luxuries. Whilst I love the calm and slower pace of Edinburgh compared to the super-fast buzz of London life, Edinburgh is by no means dull! It has historically been a vibrant culture capital of art, theatre and all manner of creativity, being home to legendary authors, poets and other literary heroes, as well as great summer festivals and world-renowned winter festivities. The city is small - you can walk every where and see most of it comfortably in 2 days, but there is plenty to do and see for everyone. The food scene is also vibrant and there is everything available for every kind of diet.

Travel:

Edinburgh is very accessible by air, train or bus.

Flying in: The airport is rather small with only 1 terminal, but one of the busiest in the UK. It’s around 8miles from the City centre, so about a 20min drive. What is really convenient is the Tram, that takes you from the airport to various stops in the city of Edinburgh. Of course you can also arrange a private airport transfer service, catch a taxi or hop on to the airport bus service.

Train: This is my favourite way to get to Edinburgh. We always booked our tickets well in advance, thereby getting the 1st class tickets very economically (excuse the pun!). The journey was very enjoyable, with the seats comfortable, being able to walk around, and provision of food/snacks. But the highlight was always the beautiful views! I loved watching luscious green pastures dotted with farm animals flashing past, and then looking out at the beautiful waters as the train sped right by the coast and then the Lochs.

Edinburgh is connected to the rest of the Country via two major stations: Waverley and Haymarket. The journey from London Paddington is just over 5 hours. There are several trains that run between the 2 stations all day, every day. We usually got off at Haymarket (which is the last stop) and walked our way to our hotel.

Buses: Where ever you are coming from in the UK, it is very easy to travel to Edinburgh via buses running so frequently from every where, and this is a very cost affective way. Make sure to book as much in advance as possible, and pack food.

Driving: Although we never did it, but this could be a really fun way to get there, especially if you are in no hurry, making stops along the way.

When to visit:

Being the Capital of Scotland, it is busy and open all year round, but Edinburgh in June looks very different to Edinburgh in December.

When to visit totally depends on the experience you are after. There is lots to do all year round, but there is a massive difference in temperature and therefore the overall look and feel of the city, in each different season.

Edinburgh in the Summer:

My first visit was in the summer, when the city was so green and pretty, and I loved exploring it all in the July sun. There is also the famous August festival, which is also an incentive for a lot of people to visit in the summer. My best memories are just leisurely walks around the city in the long days, stopping in pretty spots and enjoying delicious light meals.

On our visit, we had booked a city bus tour as well as a boat cruise on the Firth of Forth. Both tours were part of a package, which made it a good purchase.

Bus tour:

This is a really convenient way to see any city. Hop on hop off tickets make it really easy and comfortable, and when we do a city bus tour we find it’s a really clever way to not just see the city with a guide, but also save on taxi costs in getting from one place to another!

Firth of Forth tour:

They promise puffin and seal sightings and we certainly saw both, so that was enough to make it worthwhile for me! I could never do this tour any time apart from summer, because even on the very sunny day that we went it was very windy and cold out on the waters, so I’d definitely recommend taking layers with you when you go, even on a very warm day!

The Princes Street Gardens and The Meadows are both beautiful oasis of green spaces that are great for a picnic and letting the children run around in.

Watching sunsets over the Firth of Forth whilst taking a stroll along the waterfront walkway, culminating the evening with a decadent fish meal in Leith is my idea of a perfect time.

There are great Panoramic views of the city from Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park, which is actually a dormant volcano! Long hours of sunlight, plus the higher temperatures make summer the ideal time for this, whereas it gets dark too early for attempting to ascend plus it can get too cold up on the cliff in the other seasons.

The West End Fair in August is a great opportunity to pick up unique selections of contemporary handicrafts, clothes and jewellery from hundreds of exhibitors that come together here.

I love walking up and down the Royal Mile, and look at everything that’s Tartan and Scottish! It’s a great place to pick up the best quality wool scarves, jumpers, cardigans, etc, and I love shopping here.

Victoria Street, just off the Royal Mile, is worth a visit and quite magical, and I say that very deliberately. This quaint, cobbled Street is what J K Rowling based Diagon Alley on, so if you know Diagon Alley you can imagine what Victoria Street is like (or the other way round!), bustling with little shops and restaurants.

The Royal Botanic Garden has a reputation for being the best in the world. There is such an amazing variety of plants and it’s all so beautiful and peaceful. Also, there are special events held in the summer so if you plan on visiting the gardens, do check what is going on..

There are several more specific things to do in the summer months, for which you need to head on to my post …………………..

Top tip: don’t be fooled by the ‘Summer’ – the weather is unpredictable and evenings can be chilly, and it can rain Anytime! Pack accordingly so there are no unpleasant surprises.

Edinburgh in the Winter:

Since our trip with our 2month old to Edinburgh in Dec, we went back every single year at the same time, and when his sister came along, we would go with both kids bundled up, and all of us would have a great time. We did this for quite a few years in a row. I feel Edinburgh in December is quite magical. The dreamy, ancient feel of the city intensifies, and you can make an attempt at breaking away from the present and getting lost in days gone by. There is also that festive feel everywhere, certainly in the lead up to Christmas and then Hogmanay.

My favourite part, and one of the things I look forward to so much, is the Edinburgh Christmas Market. Located on Prince’s Street, next to Waverley station, Edinburgh market comes alive from the 16th of Nov till the 4th of January, from 10am-10pm everyday. You can spot it from far away thanks to the Star Flyer which soars 60m high, dwarfing even the Ferris wheel. There are plenty of rides to choose from, and even more stalls, selling food and merchandise. It is bustling with sights, sounds and smells – a real sensory overload – and I love strolling through, continuously munching on something (esp the German Doughnuts!) and picking up interesting things for ourselves or gifts. Read here for a full post on the Edinburgh Christmas Market…..

Another favourite of mine is shopping on the Royal Mile. Whilst it’s definitely something to do in the Summer too, during the winter cold it just makes so much more sense. I am drawn (even more!) to the tartan woolly scarves, hats and coats.

Victoria Street is just as magical in the winter as the summer, so a definite place to visit and take lots of pictures in.

Pantomime shows are a popular Christmas family tradition. We haven’t been to one yet, but I know it’s something the kids will enjoy. Apart from Panto, there are plenty of other musicals, theatre plays and shows to choose from.

Like in the Summer, a hike up to Arthur’s Seat is a great idea for amazing views of the city and the walking helps keep warm!

The Royal Botanical Gardens are just as much worth visiting in the winter as in the summer. In fact, there are some rare plants housed here that bloom only in the harsh conditions of winter – something interesting to see and learn about.

There are several more activities to do, but in all honesty my ideal days were a wonderfully cheerful breakfast buffet at the hotel, followed by heading out for a walk around the city, whether it was up to the Castle, up and down the Royal Mile or to the Christmas Market and the area around Prince’s Street, or just generally walking to anywhere our feet would take us, until lunch time. The kids would be in their pushchairs, sitting back comfortably whilst being taken around. We would then locate a nice place for lunch, and head back to the hotel to rest and freshen up. We would then head out again for the evening, most often heading to the Christmas Market, or a mall (there are a few to choose from) or generally head in the direction of where we plan to have our evening meal. At the end of the day I always looked forward to being back at the hotel, warm and cozy, having down time with the hubs and kids, watching tv and chatting whilst having tea.

Top tips: it can get quite cold, and the days are very short…pack warm layers! Take plenty of snacks, especially for the kids, when out and about, it’s fuel.

Where to stay

Whilst there are lots of places to stay depending on your needs and budget, I am going to talk about the 2 that I have stayed at...

The Bonham

This is an eclectic boutique hotel that we stayed at on our visit to Edinburgh in the Summer. We loved our stay then, and it seems the hotel is still doing pretty well to have received the 2020 Scottish Hotel Award for ‘Luxury City Hotel of the Year’ as well as ‘Afternoon Tea Regional winner’. The hotel is really charming and feels quite cozy, and the rooms are lovely. When we stayed here, we loved the fact that each room was unique and had a different theme, and the one we chose was quite zainy with loud colours! I believe the hotel has been recently refurbished, so the rooms now look more luxurious and elegant, with a regal 19th century look. We would have breakfast here everyday which was quite nice! The location is really good too, being right nearby the city centre and every where else that we wanted to go to. I would definitely recommend this hotel. Note that children aged 7yrs and above are considered adults here! They provide cots free of charge upon request, and an extra bed for £30 per child, per night.

Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa Edinburgh

We stay here every year for our winter trip, and each time the hotel experience is brilliant! The rooms are very comfortable, and the purple night light and the tartan cushions became familiar features that we grew to love! The changing light colours of the bathroom were the best part - it’s actually quite cool but the kids absolutely loved it when they would be in the bath and I’d keep changing the light colours - they’d keep shouting for their favourite ones to change to (a zillion times!) and roar with laughter! We love the breakfast buffet here, it’s quite extensive and we’d have a great start to our day! We’ve asked for room service too on many occasions, especially when it would be particularly cold and we had a long day and wanted to turn in early, and we always

enjoyed the food. The location of the hotel is great, being just a stone’s throw away from Prince’s Street and directly opposite the castle. The Spa is fantastic should you fancy a treat.

Tip: ask for a room with a view of the castle.

Our Favourite Places to Eat:

Being the capital city and one that’s always frequented by tourists from around the world, there are tons of amazing places to eat in Edinburgh which cater for every palate and need, and there are interesting new ones opening up all the time. Being a very small city also helps in locating places quite easily, so it’s great if you do a little research before you go to bookmark places you definitely want to eat out at, but even if you don’t, you’ll be sure to stumble across somewhere quite easily.

We often did the ‘stumbling across’ thing in Edinburgh, but there are a few places we Always went to….these are by no means the be all end all places to go to, as there are so very many cool places popping up all the time, but these are just our regular stops...

The Dome

This is not just a place to eat, but an experience. The building is stunning, full of character and history. You will certainly be charmed just with the first look. Christmas decorations here are literally the talk of the town. The food is good too, whether it’s tea or a main meal. Visit to celebrate a special occasion, or just invent one for the excuse!

The Scottish Café & Restaurant

We love coming here. This is an award winning sustainable Scottish restaurant located in the Scottish National Gallery which is right next to Waverly Station, overlooking the park. The first thing you notice, after the cheery and fresh vibe, is the super friendly staff. Literally every time we have come here, the staff has been so nice, friendly and helpful. The food is absolutely lovely. In the summer we have enjoyed the fresh salads, and in the winter the soups, and each time we have loved the dainty cakes and coffees. Whether it’s for a quick snack or a full on meal, I would recommend a visit here.

Spirit of Thai

We stumbled upon this place the first time we stayed in the Sheraton in the winter, probably because it’s literally across the road, and went back to it every single time we were in Edinburgh. Each time our experience was just as lovely as our last. It’s a tiny place, with an almost homey feel. The food is beautifully presented and quite authentic. Because each time we visited was always just before Christmas, there would be crackers on each place setting, and the warm interiors plus the spicy food was perfect for the freezing weather! The staff is also really nice, and we’d always talk to them about our last visit the previous year and how we look forward to coming again.

Pizza Express

Not exactly a novelty, Pizza Express of course being on every other street back in London, I am still including it in my list here. That’s because it just so happened that we went to Pizza Express every single time we were in Edinburgh. Almost each of those times we had been on our feet for hours, in need of sustenance very quickly, and therefore decided to go for the tried and tested. Each time we loved the familiar vibrant environment and were grateful for the warm, filling meals.

Dishoom

Dishoom is a family favourite of our's, and we were quite excited when we learnt that it has also opened up in Edinburgh a few years ago! Although it is on our doorstep here in London, there is something novel and exciting in it's familiarity in Edinburgh! The Parsi-style food is delicious, and the ambience is always on point - opulent, grand and retro, whilst bustling with people, background music and just a hubbub of activity.

Shopping in Edinburgh

The first things that come to mind are tartans and shortbread.

We have brought back woollen scarves for ourselves as well as some for family and friends as presents on each of our trips. We got most from the shops lined on the Royal Mile. If you want to spend a little extra it’s worth checking out ‘The Edinburgh Woollen Mill’. Although some may argue that it is rather touristy, but I’d say it’s still worth a visit, and even if you don’t buy anything the trip could be educational – the staff there are incredibly learned about all things wool and Scottish, so do not miss the opportunity to ask questions and leave more informed.

Most of the scarves my husband and son wear to this day have come from Edinburgh. I bought a gorgeous turquoise and pink tartan coat from a shop on the Royal Mile.

My favourite shop in Edinburgh has to be Ness. With its pink and blue front, it houses a variety of accessories and clothing items that are of a range of colours in contemporary designs, but with a Scottish twist.

If you want to treat yourself to Cashmere, Edinburgh is a good place to get it. You can browse in the local shops, but there are also several well known brands like Brora, Hawico and others to look into.

The German Christmas Market is good for picking up the odd item or souvenir. I had got the soap dish for our bathroom from there, which wasn’t really a soap dish though, but a hand made …..

There are lots of interesting independent shops in the Grassmarket and Victoria Street. If you’ve ever wished to explore Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, the closest you can go is Victoria Street, so head there for the narrow cobblestone street lined with interesting shops and eateries.

If you want the high street stores then head over to Princes Street and George Street. If Malls are your thing then are a few to choose from, including Waverly Mall, Ocean Terminal, The Gyle and St. James Shopping Centre.

I know Scotland is the home of Shortbread, but to be honest we never got any from there, as it is so readily available in all grocery stores back in London! I am yet to find a variety exclusive to Scotland, and when I do, I will certainly bring some back home with me…